Rio de Janeiro: In between Gangsters and Drag Queens

Electronic music scenes are quite unique in Rio de Janeiro. They unfold upon a sharp divide between funk and house, the underclass and the upper class, pushing and pulling a sizable middle-class youth in opposite directions.

On the one hand, "bailes funk" are highly popular parties playing a sort of proto-hip hop, James Brown-inspired music marked by a tough syncopated beat and irreverent, goofy lyrics. Originated in marginal segments of the working-class youth, funk parties are often sponsored by drug lords in ghettos outside police reach.

Nevertheless, funk music has become fashionable among a larger segment of the middle-class, and can be easily found in nicer venues, such as those in the "bohemian" (gentrified) district of Lapa and uptown Barra. "Ghetto cool" is not unique to Rio (- just see, for example, white college kids dressing like gangsters in the U.S. or France). But the popularity of funk among well-off segments also expresses the glamorization of gangsterism, a historical feature of carioca culture unfortunately.

On the other hand, electronic dance music per se (house, tech house, deep house, industrial, etc.) is almost exclusively found in gay milieus of uptown Rio. In larger parties, a mass of G.I.-looking teen males can be seen sweating shirtless on the dance-floor, showing-off their beefed-up muscles as if holding imaginary buckets. Most gay nightclubs in the city charge incredibly inflated entry prices to opposite sex individuals. (So, fag hags must find some other safe venue to show their love).

Yet, there are a few truly exceptional nightclubs in Rio that are more eclectic, diverse, queer in essence, welcoming all sorts of smart clubbers: straights, gays, lesbians, more or less discreet, more or less outrageous - just like any good party should be! Against the myriad of club labels that come and go over the years, I must mention Dama de Ferro (Iron Lady), located in an oddly-looking bunker-style house in Ipanema. This is a small yet highly cosmopolitan venue, hosting clubbers and DJs from the best corners of the planet. Moreover, in a fashion resembling Manumission (now defunct) or Bar 25 (Berlin), the creative promoters of Dama de Ferro - led by charismatic Adriana - have expanded their party portfolio to include experiments with cabaret art and "silent [headphone] parties". Viva Dama!

How to Find a "Rave Party"

People often ask how they can find rave parties in their towns. I've come across this situation when visiting new scenes in Europe, India or California. I recently saw the question at Yahoo Answers, and decided to organize my practical advice to newbies and travelers alike:

The best way to find out about secret parties is to know someone who belongs to the scene. Usually someone at school is a rave fan. But you need to be discreet when asking around. There is a negative prejudice against raves, specially in America. Moreover, even rave insiders are wary of the term, which became a tacky designation these days, an indication of naive outsiders and poly-drug abuse.

Instead, ask for "underground parties" that play "techno" or "electronic dance" music "kind of rave". It does not hurt to perform a bit blase' ("cool"), to suggest that you are already a bit of an insider, just from a different city or scene...

Another way to connect with a local rave/club scene is to ask to junior DJs at mainstream clubs, or record aficionados browsing in record stores. Those kids handing out fliers outside main clubs can also be very helpful sometimes. As you see, this may take some investigative efforts, which, in itself, is already part of the fun.

Finally, there are a few websites dedicated to rave parties. They may contain hidden links to calendars organized by region. Google them, and carefully look for very discreet links placed at the margins of the website. Remember, too, that ravers typically drive hundreds of miles just to get to a good party. So, if you don't know the local scene, make sure to gather some information about if the party is any good before going. In these situations, better go with friends, so you feel more comfortable.

More importantly, party safe. Rave culture is a wonderful space to meet really nice people and to have a great time. But, as a site of experimentation and liberation, people often get out of control. As such, "make freedom your foundation, through the mastery of yourself." (Socrates)

History of Techno in Germany: a Video Review

"We Call it Techno!" is a great documentary about the history of club scenes in Germany. Produced by H. Wich and M. Sextro, it focuses on Berlin and Frankfurt scenes of 1980s and 1990s. It depicts Berlin's eclectic taste for dance/Euro pop in a post-Cold War era, whereas Frankfurt hosted wild underground parties which gradually evolved into a highly competitive and commercialized club industry.

These were not isolated sites, as the film shows a wealth of artistic exchanges across cities, as DJ traveled with their entourages in crazy bus caravans. This ritual eventually led to the rise of the Love Parade in Berlin 89 - four months before the fall of the Wall.

The film also provides a great methodology for anyone interested in documenting their own rave/club scene. It aptly carries out the pedestrian task of registering artistic genealogies (who did what and where followed by whom). Yet, it goes beyond, by investigating local scenes within wider issues of technology, lifestyle, counterculture and popularization. In particular, I was curious to see their narrative of "decline". I was gladly surprised with how smart and reflexive the scene producers were in pondering about the ironical and unintended consequences of Techno’s massification in Germany.

As a minor critique, the documentary was limited to a strong geo/urban-centric bias. It remains stuck in a few cities, and totally neglects important transnational exchanges between German Techno artists and the rest of Europe and the world. For example, it is important to note events such as, Sven Vath's winters in Goa, his Coocon/Amnesia project and beach parties in Ibiza, besides the rise of global club legend Space located in the German resorts of Ibiza.

All in all, an excellent video. Watch it below:

[UPDATE July 19: The film was removed from Google movies, but you can still watch a short trailer]: